Où il est question de piques-niques et d’un cake à la truite fumée
par Darya
Les liens entre météo et cuisine sont on ne peut plus forts en cette période de l’année. En ce moment, en théorie, nous sommes en pleine saison des pique-niques, qu’on soit en vacances à la mer, à la montagne, à la campagne, ou que l’on soit resté chez soi, posant alors son panier de victuailles dans un square ou un parc pour profiter du beau temps. Le hic, dans le Ch’Nord en tout cas, c’est qu’il ne fait pas forcément beau, ou que quand il fait beau, il peut néanmoins faire trop frais pour se prélasser sur la pelouse. Alors, on fait pique-nique à la maison, ou l’on invite des amis à l’apéro. C’est finalement tout aussi sympa, quoique moins proprement estival.
Ce cake salé conviendra parfaitement pour toutes ces occasions. Il est très simple et rapide à faire, se transporte bien (tranché ou non), est moelleux mais assez ferme pour être mangé avec les doigts sans se désintégrer, et le plus important je crois, il est bien bon. J’ai utilisé une excellente truite fumée de la région ; optez pour du saumon fumé si c’est ce que vous avez sous la main. J’ai utilisé de l’aneth, une herbe que j’affectionne particulièrement, mais la ciboulette serait également délicieuse ici. À vous de voir ce que vous préférez, ou ce que vous avez sous la main.
Ingrédients (pour un cake de taille standard, 27 cm, même si un plus petit conviendrait mieux ici)
– 150 gr de farine
– 7 gr (un sachet) de levure chimique
– Une pincée de sel
– 3 œufs
– 60 ml d’huile de tournesol + un peu pour huiler le moule
– 30 ml (2 c. à soupe) de kéfir de lait (ou lait fermenté, ou yaourt nature fluide)
– Zeste et jus d’un citron bio
– Quelques brins d’aneth bien garnis, lavés et séchés, puis finement hachés
– 150 gr de truite fumée, grossièrement hachée
Recette
– Préchauffer le four à 180°C. Huiler légèrement un moule à cake.
– Dans un bol, mélanger la farine, la levure chimique et le sel. Dans un autre, fouetter ensemble les œufs, l’huile, le kéfir, le zeste et le jus de citron. Ajouter les ingrédients secs aux ingrédients humides et mélanger jusqu’à ce que les ingrédients secs ne soient plus visibles. Éviter de trop mélanger. Finalement, incorporer l’aneth et la truite et répartir dans l’appareil.
– Verser l’appareil dans le moule à cake. Enfourner pour 35-40 minutes, ou jusqu’à ce que la pointe d’un couteau ressorte sèche. Laisser tiédir 10 minutes avant de démouler. Laisser refroidir à température ambiante avant de couper des tranches épaisses. Manger avec les doigts si le pique-nique se passe à l’extérieur, ou servir avec une salade sur une assiette, si le pique-nique se passe à la maison.
Bon appétit !
The English-speaking corner
A chapter on picnics, and a smoked trout savory loaf
Weather and cooking are strongly linked at this time of the year. In theory, it is the season of picnics, whether you are on vacation, taking your meals by the seaside, during a hike in the mountains, or in the countryside, or whether you have stayed at home, but want to make the most of the beautiful weather by taking your picnic basket out to a square or park nearby. The only problem, at least here in Northern France, is that the weather is not always beautiful, and even when it is, it might not be warm enough to go out and bask in the sun. In such cases, one can always transfer the picnic back home, and invite friends over for an inside apéritif. In the end, it is just as nice, though not quite as summery.
This savory loaf is perfect for all the aforementioned occasions. It is quick and simple, can be easily transported (sliced or whole), is moist but firm enough to be eaten with your fingers without disintegrating, and, most importantly, it is really good. I used an excellent trout from a nearby farm; use smoked salmon if that’s what you have. I used my favorite herb, dill, though chives would be great here too. You can easily tweak this loaf depending on your preferences, or whatever is available.
Ingredients (for one loaf, the standard length in France is 27 cm long, though a slightly smaller tin would be even better here)
– 150 gr (5.3 oz) AP flour
– 7 gr (0.25 oz) baking powder
– A pinch of salt
– 3 eggs
– 60 ml (1/4 cup) sunflower oil + a little for the loaf tin
– 30 ml (2 Tbsp) milk kefir, or buttermilk, or plain yogurt
– Zest and juice of one organic lemon
– About 6-7 sprigs of fresh dill, washed, dried, and finely chopped
– 150 gr (5.3 oz) smoked trout, coarsely chopped
Recipe
– Preheat the oven at 180°C (355°F). Lightly oil a loaf tin.
– In a bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, oil, milk kefir, zest and juice of the lemon. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients, and stir until the dry ingredients are just incorporated. Do not overmix. Finally, fold in the trout and dill.
– Pour the batter into the oiled tin. Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until the point of a knife comes out clean. Wait 10 minutes before removing the loaf from the tin. Let it cool to room temperature before cutting into thick slices. Eat with your fingers if the picnic is taking place outside, or serve on a plate, with a green salad on the side, if the picnic is taking place at home.
Bon appétit!
Oh wow, a savory loaf! How thoughtful. It really is perfect for transport. I’ve never seen anything like this, but I imagine that of I like an olive bread with rosemary, I would definitely like a smoked trout with dill. Especially since I eat that for breakfast on a bagel sometimes. This looks like a perfect all in one. I could use a slice of this right now! Xo
Savory loaves are really a picnic and potluck staple in France, a bit like quiche. It is tricky not ending up with a dry and compact loaf though, you need to find ways of moistening it; the trout and lemon juice are helpful here.
By the way, I forgot when exactly your birthday is in August, so happy belated birthday!!! I hope you celebrated with something special.
Thank you! It was the 4th. I kept it relaxed. Spent the day with my rooroommateate from law school and the evening with Alex at a Japanese restaurant. 😚
It is but sometimes one is lucky enough to come upon something as original and obviously mouth-watering as this – cannot wait to make it, be it eaten indoors or out! As in my part of Australia and midwinter today’s midday temperature should be about 24C, outdoors on a garden chair, with the sun streaming thru’ the tree branches, should be just fine 🙂 ! And, thank you so much for a great recipe . . for me, trout over salmon, but can think of other fishy examples as well!
Outside is even better! It is dark and stormy today, no outside time in my plans… 😢
Any smoked fish should work here I think, I guess it just depends on personal taste in the end.
For anyone reading or filing: have just ended a committee meeting with a glass of champagne and this: made double the amount last night and I do not have a skerrick left ! Trout used – delightful . . . . quite atop my current recipe pile . . .
Oh wonderful! Thank you so much for the feedback and enthusiasm. I’m so glad you and the committee liked this savory loaf! Yay!
Delicious! You could also make savory muffins this way, which would look very nice. For a lighter version, you could substitute all or part of the oil with yogurt.
PS in the English version the eggs are missing from the list of ingredients.
Thanks for pointing out the omission, Stefan. These would definitely work well in a miniature shape, muffins or mini-loaves. I will try subbing the oil entirely for dairy, I am sure I would like that. Thanks for the suggestion.
I love the savory quick breads that you all do in France. I don’t know why you so seldom see them here. God knows we have an (over)abundance of the sweet varieties. Hope you have some nice picnic-worthy days before the summer is over!
I am surprised that they aren’t more known in the US, they are the ideal thing for potlucks! Leaving for Burgundy this morning… hoping for nice weather so meals can be taken in the garden!
Such a lovely post, Darya. I noticed a similar (but different) bread in David Lebovitz’s book, The Sweet Life in Paris. He refers to it as Le Cake and his version has bacon and Roquefort in it. I bookmarked the recipe to try but I think your version is even more tempting. How lovely with a glass of white wine. Oh and a picnic. I must not let summer get away without a picnic. I’m so happy for the reminder!
Yes savory « cake » is a versatile thing here. I also make a feta, olive, and sundried tomato version which is great. Bacon and roquefort sounds good too, and Lebovitz’s recipes are trustworthy. I hope you manage to go on a picnic while the weather is still nice !
Sounds great, I love savoury cakes!! Thank you 🙂
Et hop je mets de côté cette recette pour les prochains beaux jours 😉